Gays and fashion

Dec 22, 2006

For centuries fashion has been a powerful art to express one's individuality. No wonder design, fashion and gays were not only connected, but also associated with each other.

1. Feminine style

In early twenty century gays stayed quite hidden and secluded. In order to identify other gays and express their identities gays took over a feminine style.

For many gays this daring choice of a dress, which was meant for a woman was a way of pointing out their sex orientation.

Some used most obvious marking of feminine manners and features: lipstick, dyed hair, high-heeled shoes, and woman's outfit.

Though feminine style was rather dangerous, for many gays it was the only way to join a gay society.
Later clothing, which is associated with female gender, was adopted by "drag queens"- gay performers, who were participating at various gay events, such as gay prides, shows and celebrations.

2. Secret signs

Till the time gays became more open, they needed to use some codes to make their orientation non-obvious for gay-unfriendly society and clear for other gays.

Often it was expressed through particular colors and accessory, like green cravats, which were worn in Paris, and green carnation in London.

Green color was believed to imply wearer's homosexuality since the ancient Rome and developed through the first part of twentieth century. By the 60's one of the well known worldwide secret signs were suede shoes.

3. Masculine style

1960-70's was a period when feminine style fades and most gays turn to a most traditional fashion. Such social events as gay liberation movement make gays change their appearance.

In USA masculine dress becomes even more distinct. Gays keep to exaggerated masculinity by wearing cowboy outfit, or looking like a lumberman.

More and more gays are moving to the cities, were they became more overt and adopt this new masculine look: short haircut, moustaches, muscular body and clothes, which outline it.

Some develop "leather" style, associated with S&M, and apply symbols or "hanky codes". Back-pocket handkerchief of various colors denoted gay's sexual preferences and served as a particular form of communication.